Loose Leash in 6 Weeks: Stop Being Dragged
Six weeks to turn a dog who pulls into a dog who walks nicely beside you. No corrections, no pain, no special collars — just food, timing and patience.
The problem
Pulling is rarely disobedience. Usually there's a cause: not enough exercise, difficulty pushed up too fast, not enough reward — or kit that quietly rewards pulling in the first place (a retractable lead literally pays it with more length).
Fix the cause and the training gets much easier.
One thing to know before you start
No normal walks for the first two weeks. You cannot build a new habit while the old one gets rehearsed every single day. For those two weeks we burn energy other ways — fetch, tug, play dates with friendly dogs, and the recall game we start in week one.
It's the hardest thing I ask of you, and it's the single thing that makes the rest work.
What you get
- Six classes, one a week, each held in the environment that week is meant to be trained in
- A written plan — what to practise each week, which treats to use, and for how long
- Follow-up after every class: that week's homework and what "working" looks like
- Clear standards for moving on — not "it feels a bit better", but a checklist you tick
The six weeks
| Week | What we build | Where | Walks |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 · Home training | Indoor heel, the recall game, and both versions of the "with me" cue | Inside your home; a field or quiet car park for the recall game | Paused |
| 2 · Backyard training | Heel and loose leash walking outdoors, the Up-Down game, beginner "leave it", and what to do when heel breaks | Your yard, a quiet field or an empty car park — no people, no dogs | Paused |
| 3 · Quiet place training | Your first real walks, rewarding every check-in, and your response to pulling | Quiet paths, then pavements — nothing on your side of the road | 20 min |
| 4 · Passing people | Feeding past people as you go by, and advanced "leave it" | Pavements, passing people on your side | 30 min |
| 5 · A leashed, stationary dog | Staying calm around other dogs, standing still — and the crutches come off | Your normal routes, plus a field where other dogs are on lead | 30 min |
| 6 · Passing people and dogs | Staying calm around dogs while moving, and back to ordinary walks | Anywhere, any time of day | Any |
Every week ends in a checklist. All ticked, you move on.
Booking
HK$3,000 · six classes · HK$500 each
Who it's for
- Your dog pulls on every walk and you've already tried a few things
- You want a clear sequence, not a handful of scattered tips
- You're willing to pause walks for two weeks in exchange for a lasting change
Quick questions
Does it have to take six weeks?
Six weeks is the pace most dogs manage, and the course is built around it. Each week ends in a checklist, and you move on once it's all ticked — so if your dog starts with weaker foundations, the first two weeks can take a little longer. That's normal, and I'll tell you straight when it's the case.
Do we really have to stop walking for two weeks?
Yes. Every walk where your dog pulls and still gets to keep going teaches them that pulling works. I'll give you other ways to burn their energy for those two weeks — they won't be bored.
Will you use a prong or choke collar?
No. Nothing in this uses punishment, pain or special collars — only food, timing and patience. The kit is a front-clip harness, a fixed 2 m leash, and a long line.
My dog barks and lunges at other dogs — is this right for us?
Weeks five and six are exactly the part that deals with other dogs. But if your dog barks, lunges, growls or freezes at the sight of one, tell me before you book. That needs different distance work, and sometimes a referral to a behaviourist — I'll be straight with you about which.